Leek Upside-down Tart

Seasonal Recipe of the Pandemic
Here is a very cool and unusual recipe I found online and adapted to make it even better. It's very easy but looks very complex. If you follow the directions exactly it will be JLP (just like the picture). A great one to bring to a party if you want to impress. Or make one for yourself and have it with some prosciutto and a nice glass of wine.

  

 

Ingredients
1 14-ounce package frozen puff pastry, thawed
6 leeks
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more
1/4 cup aged sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon thyme leaves, plus more for serving
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 ounces Asiago cheese, grated (about 1/2 cup)
1 tablespoon shredded Parmesan cheese
flaky sea salt and black pepper

Procedure
Place a rack in center of oven; preheat to 400°. Roll out puff pastry on a lightly floured surface to a 12" square. (If you have 2 sheets of pastry, stack tham and gently roll out to stick them together.) Using a 10" cast-iron skillet turned upside down as your guide, trace a circle with a sharp knife around circumference of skillet. Reserve scraps for another use. Prick pastry round all over with a fork. Roll dough onto rolling pin, then unfurl onto a rimmed baking sheet and chill until ready to use.

Trim the root ends and dark green parts off the leeks. Then cut them in half lengthwise and run under cold water while fanning out the layers to remove any sand. Toss leeks, oil, kosher salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper on another rimmed baking sheet. Arrange leeks cut sides down and roast until tender and lightly browned in spots, about 20 minutes. Let cool. Remove tough, leathery outer layer, then transfer leeks to a cutting board.

Meanwhile, bring vinegar to a simmer in 10" cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced, about 1 minute. Add butter, sugar, and 1 teaspoon thyme and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until butter has melted, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

Arrange leeks cut sides down and side by side in rows in vinegar mixture, trimming as needed so they all fit snugly in skillet. Fill any holes with small pieces. You may have a leek or two left, so just eat them. Brush leeks with mustard. Sprinkle with the Asiago and Parmesan cheeses. Drape chilled pastry over leeks, tucking edges inside skillet with a spoon. Cut three 3-inch slits into pastry (be sure to cut all the way through) to let steam escape—this will help the pastry cook more evenly. Bake tart until pastry is deeply golden brown and puffed, 35–45 minutes.

Let tart cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Carefully place a large plate on top of skillet. Using towels, invert tart onto plate. If some of the leeks get left behind in skillet, use a butter knife or offset spatula to release and nestle them back into tart. Garnish with the extra thyme, sea salt, and pepper then pour me a glass of wine!

Leeks

Excellent Ingredient of the Week
Today we are going to discuss leeks. My dad told the same joke every time someone mentioned leeks. How do you make vichyssoise? First you take a leek. I laughed every time.

So what's the deal with leeks? It seems you buy them and throw out most of them. Leeks has a mild onion-like taste. In their raw state, the vegetable is crunchy and firm. The edible portions of the leek are the white base of the leaves (above the roots and stem base), the light green parts, and to a lesser extent the dark green parts of the leaves. One of the most popular uses is for adding flavor to stock. The dark green portion is usually discarded because it has a tough texture, but they can be sauteed or added to stock. A few leaves are sometimes tied with twine and other herbs to form a bouquet garni. Leek is typically chopped into thin slices. The slices have a tendency to fall apart, due to the layered structure of the leek. Leeks are usually sandy and need to be well soaked before adding to soups or stews. The different ways of preparing the vegetable are:

• Boiled, which turns it soft and mild in taste.
  
• Fried, which leaves it crunchier and preserves the taste. We make frizzled leeks this julienne to top soups or salads.
  
• Raw, which can be used in salads, doing especially well when they are the prime ingredient.

Leeks are an ingredient of cock-a-leekie soup, leek and potato soup, and vichyssoise, as well as plain leek soup. Leeks also make a great tart, here is a recipe!

leek and cheese tart

Ingredients Pate Brisée, or your favorite pastry dough All-purpose flour, for rolling out your dough 2 medium leeks, white and pale-green parts only, thinly sliced and rinsed well 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter 2 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten 1/2 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons creme fraiche 1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese 1/4 cup chopped mixed herbs (such as tarragon, basil, chives, parsley, or chervil) 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt Freshly ground pepper Procedure Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll out pate brisée into a 1/4-inch-thick rectangle on a lightly floured surface. Fit dough into a 4 1/2-by-13 3/4-inch rectangular tart pan. Prick bottom with a fork. Chill in freezer for 30 minutes. Line dough with plastic wrap, and top with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until edges are golden, about 20 minutes. Remove pie weights and parchment, and bake until bottom is golden, 10 to 15 minutes more. Let cool in pan on a wire rack.

Meanwhile, saute leeks in butter over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until leeks are just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer leeks to a bowl, and let cool slightly. Add eggs and yolk, cream, creme fraiche, cheese, herbs, and salt to leeks, and stir to combine. Season with pepper. Spoon filling into cooled tart shell. Bake until filling is set in the center, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool in pan on wire rack. Remove from pan and cut into squares.

Leek, Lemon, and Feta Quiche

The Altitude Adjustment Section
Have you heard that Quiche is making a comeback? What's next, cupcakes? Ha ha, anyway I love this combo of flavors and it has a cheater's crust: commercial puff pastry. Obviously, you can use a traditional rolled-out pastry crust or even a nut crust.

Ingredients
1 sheet frozen puff pastry
1 pound leeks
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup half-and-half
3 eggs
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons Ouzo
2-1/2 ounces feta cheese, cut into 4 (approx 1/2-inch) slices

Procedure
Preheat oven to 375F. Thaw puff pastry according to package directions. Rinse off any visible dirt from the leeks and slice the roots from the end. Remove the dark green tops, leaving a couple inches of light green with the white portion of the leeks. Halve the leeks lengthwise, then cut crosswise in 1/2-inch slices. Dump the slices in a colander or salad spinner and rinse thoroughly. Let the leeks drain well, or spin dry. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the leeks and cook until they are wilted; don’t cook them so much that they give off liquid. Turn off the heat and let sit. In a mixing bowl using a whisk or fork, beat together the half-and-half, eggs, lemon zest, salt and pepper and add the Ouzo. Prepare the pastry crusts. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the thawed puff pastry to a thickness of about 1/4 inch. Line a shallow pie plate with the pastry. Press the pastry up the sides to make a nice edge. Fill the quiche. Distribute the leeks evenly across the bottom of the dish. Pour the milk mixture over the leeks. Top the quiche with the crumbled feta. Bake 30-40 minutes. The center should be solid and the crust and top nicely browned. Let the quiche cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. Quiches taste great hot, room temperature, even cold.

A Trio of Mashed Potatoes

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Is there anyone who doesn’t get excited about the thought of homemade mashed potatoes? Don’t even tell me you use instant, that's just wrong. Having said that, there is one thing plain instant potato mix is good for and that’s thickening soup, it's ideal. But I digress ... getting back to the subject at hand, homemade mashed potatoes with butter and sour cream and chives is hard to beat. But sometimes it's nice to try some variations, so here are three. BLT mash (not with lettuce but with leeks), Pesto mash, and yet again from England the classic Bubble and Squeak.

BLT Mash

Ingredients
2 1/2 lbs russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
1/2 pound sliced bacon
2 cups sliced leeks (whites only)
4 tablespoons butter, melted
1/2 cup 1/2 and 1/2 warmed
4 ounces cream cheese
2 tablespoons minced, oil-packed, sun-dried tomatoes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Procedure
Boil potatoes in salted water until tender about 20 minutes. Sauté bacon in frying pan. Remove bacon from pan when crisp and then add the leeks to the bacon fat and cook until tender. Add sun-dried tomatoes to leek mixture and add bacon back in. Drain potatoes, then mash them in the pan. Add bacon, leeks, and tomato mix, plus all the remaining ingredients. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Pesto mashed potatoes

Ingredients
2 cups fresh basil
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 cup olive oil
2 1/2 pounds Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3/4 cup half-and-half, warmed

Procedure
Blend basil, Parmesan, salt, and pepper flakes in food processor until minced then drizzle in olive oil. Boil potatoes and garlic in salted water until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain, return to the pan to the stove and dry the potatoes briefly over medium heat. Mash them in the pan and stir in basil mixture, butter, and half-and-half. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve immediately, as basil will change color and darken over time.

Bubble and Squeak

Ingredients
2 1/2 pounds potatoes, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup milk
salt and pepper to taste
4 slices bacon, cubed
1/2 small head cabbage
1 large onion, chopped
1/4 cup butter, melted

Procedure
Place potatoes in a saucepan with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until tender. Place bacon in a large, deep skillet. Cook over medium high heat until evenly brown. Drain, reserving drippings, and crumble bacon. Saute cabbage and onion until soft and translucent. Putting a lid on the pan helps the vegetables cook faster. Drain the cooked potatoes, mash with milk and season with salt and pepper. Fold in the cabbage and onions, and then transfer the mixture to a large serving bowl. Make a well in the center, and pour in the melted butter and mix well, then form potato mix into small cakes and fry till browned.

Note: Celery root can also be boiled and added to mashed potatoes to give them another wonderful flavor.

Sorrel

Excellent Ingredient of the Week
Sorrel is something I started growing because I could not find it in the market place. It looks beautiful in the garden, comes back year after year, it's easy to grow and tastes delicious. Technically speaking, Sorrel is a green leaf vegetable native to Europe. It is also called common sorrel or spinach dock, and is actually considered less a vegetable and more an herb in some cultures. In appearance, sorrel greatly resembles spinach but is more acidic-tasting. That's due to the presence of oxalic acid, which actually gets stronger and tastes more prominent as the plant matures, so use the small leaves for salads, soups or stews. You can also saute it as you would spinach with garlic as a side dish. Here are 2 recipes to try!

Leek and Sorrel Pancakes with Smoked Salmon

Ingredients
1/4 cup unsalted butter (1/2 stick)
Salt and pepper to taste
4 cups leeks, cleaned and chopped
Vegetable oil
2 cups Sorrel
4 oz Smoked salmon
2 Eggs
Sour cream, for garnish
1/4 cup All-purpose flour
Chopped chives, for garnish

Procedure
Heat sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add butter when pan is hot. After butter melts, add leeks and sauté until tender, but not brown. Add sorrel, cook briefly to wilt sorrel. Remove from heat and let cool. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs until frothy. Add flour, whisk until smooth. Add cooled leek mixture. Heat griddle over medium-high heat. Add a little oil. When oil is hot, drop about 2 tablespoons batter for each pancake on griddle. Cook until brown. Turn and continue to cook until brown on other side. Remove from griddle and top with salmon, sour cream and chives. Serve immediately. Yield: 8 to 10 appetizer servings.

Sorrel Sauce for Fish

Ingredients
1/2 cup chopped fresh sorrel
2 T dry white wine
3 T minced green onions
1 cup whipping cream
1 1/2 t fresh lime juice
Ground white pepper

Procedure
Combine sorrel, wine and shallots in heavy small saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sorrel wilts, about 2 minutes. Add cream and lime juice. Boil until reduced to sauce consistency, about 12 minutes. Transfer sauce to blender. Puree until almost smooth. Return sauce to same saucepan. Season with ground white pepper and salt.

Julia Child's Potato Leek Soup

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Hot soup and a cold winter day go together like nothing else. The smell of simmering onions in butter is like perfume to me. It's like culinary foreplay, if you will! This is a recipe from the queen herself, Julia Child, for the classic potato leek soup. Here’s an old joke my father told me a hundred times... “How do you make vichyssoise? First, you take a leek.”

Ingredients
3-4 cups of diced peeled potatoes (1 lb.)
3 cups thinly sliced leeks, including the tender greens
2 quarts water
1 Tablespoon salt
6 tablespoons heavy cream or 3 tablespoons softened butter
3 tablespoons minced chives or parsley

Procedure
Simmer vegetables, salt, and water together, partially covered for 40-50 minutes in a 3-4 quart saucepan. Mash the vegetables into the soup with a fork or pass through a food mill. Julia does not like the texture of soup pureed in a blender, your call. Adjust salt and pepper. You can stop at this point. When ready to serve, bring soup back to simmering. Then off the heat, stir in the cream or butter and top with chopped chives or parsley. It does not get much better than that! Makes 2 quarts of soup for 6-8 servings.

Celery Root and Wild Rice Soup

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Santa Fe is known for many things... Deborah Madison and the Farmer's Market are just two of them. This recipe is from Debra’s Local Flavors cookbook, and it's for a nice autumnal soup made with celery root and wild rice.

Ingredients
1/2 cup wild rice
1 celery root, about 1 pound
2 large leeks, white part only
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 piece of celery diced
1 cup thinly sliced Russet potatoes
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1 bay leaf
1 fresh Thyme sprig
salt and pepper to taste
2 cups vegetable or chicken stock
2 cups half-and-half
drizzle of truffle oil (optional)

Procedure
Cover the wild rice with 5 cups water in a small sauce pan. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cover for 45 minutes, or until rice is tender. Set aside till the end. Thickly cut and trim celery root to remove nasty outside, then cube into bite-size pieces. You should get 3 cups. Chop the leek, rinse well, and drain. Melt the butter in a soup pot and add vegetables, parsley, thyme, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and bay leaf. Cook 5 minutes. Now add stock, bring to a boil, and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes. Add half-and-half and simmer till everything feels tender. Take out 1 cup of vegetables and soup, puree, then add back to soup pot. This will thicken the soup! Adjust salt and pepper. Divide into 4 warmed soup bowls, fill with soup, and add a mound of wild rice to the center of each bowl. Drizzle with truffle oil before serving. Top with a little extra chopped parsley.