Sheet pan cooking: Gochujang Chicken, Za’atar Chicken, Roast Rhubarb Chicken

Three Seasonal Recipes of the Summer
Hello there! I'm not sure there is still anyone checking this, as I have been so negligent. But I am still cooking and making discoveries every day and I want to share them with you. Unfortunately, my busy schedule and my poor work habits have stopped me from updating since Thanksgiving, which is just wrong!

As some of you know, I have been a private chef to a great family with very specific dietary needs for the past two years and I have learned so much about alternative ingredients in cooking and baking. I love a challenge! So here are three recipes which started as recipes from the New York Times recipe website which I have modified and—I think—improved. I love the idea of throwing everything on a sheet pan, popping it into a hot oven, and—like magic—dinner is ready!

Great in theory, but the reality is different ingredients take different amounts of time. So you're better off staggering when you add each ingredient and have them all finish at the same time. That being said, once you have a good understanding of how things cook, you can get really creative. (BTW, I could not find my photos of these dishes so you get a pic of this weird tattooed bunny mannequin instead. I am full of sheet!)

Gochujang chicken

Ingredients
4 tablespoons gochujang (spicy Korean chili paste)
3 tablespoons soy sauce or coconut aminos
1 one-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated (about 1 tablespoon)
4 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or canola, plus more for drizzling
2 pounds squash, such as butternut, acorn, or delicata, unpeeled, seeded and cut into 2-inch pieces (about 5 loose cups)
1 pound turnips, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces (about 3 1/2 loose cups)
10 scallions, ends trimmed, green and white parts separated, but not chopped
Kosher salt
2 1/2 to 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 bunch radishes (about 10 ounces), trimmed
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sesame oil (optional)

Procedure
Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Combine the gochujang, soy sauce, ginger and 3 tablespoons oil in a medium bowl or resealable bag. Add the squash, turnips and scallion whites, toss to coat with glaze, or seal bag and shake to coat. Lightly season with salt and transfer to an oiled rimmed baking sheet. Season the chicken with salt and toss to coat in whatever is left of the glaze in the bowl or bag. Arrange the chicken pieces skin-side up on another baking sheet. In the original recipe it was all on one sheet but I found the vegetables got soggy, followed by mushy, so I separated it.

Roast until vegetables are tender, chicken is cooked through and the skin crispy and browned in spots, about 40 minutes. Check your chicken and make sure it is done. Skin should get crispy and dark.

While the chicken cooks, thinly slice the scallion greens. Using a sharp knife or a mandoline, cut the radishes into thin rounds. In a small bowl, toss the sliced scallion greens and radishes with the rice vinegar and sesame oil, if using. Season to taste with salt and set aside to lightly pickle.

Top the roast chicken and vegetables with the quick-pickled scallion-radish mix and transfer to serving plates. Serve with steamed rice, if desired.

Za’atar chicken

Ingredients 6 garlic cloves, finely grated, pressed, or minced
2 lemons, zested
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more sprigs for garnish
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
2 tablespoons za’atar, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or marjoram, plus more sprigs for garnish
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 1/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 pound tiny potatoes cut in half

Procedure In a large bowl or container, stir together 5 of the grated garlic cloves, half the lemon zest, 1/3 cup yogurt, the cilantro, oil, za’atar, oregano or marjoram, salt and black pepper. Add chicken and toss until well coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Overnight is way better.

When ready to cook, heat your oven to 425. Remove chicken from bowl, shaking off any excess marinade, put on oiled sheet pan, along with the potatoes which have a drizzle of olive oil and salt on them. Cook for should take 25-30 minutes. Make sure to mix it a little and check that the potatoes are tender.

While the chicken is cooking, place remaining 2/3 cup yogurt in a small bowl. Stir in the reserve grated garlic clove and lemon zest, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cut one zested lemon in half and set aside for serving (save the other zested lemon for another use). To serve, place chicken and potatoes on a serving platter and drizzle with olive oil and a large squeeze of the zested lemon. Top with cilantro and oregano or marjoram sprigs and serve with yogurt sauce.

Rhubarb Roasted chicken

Ingredients
1 3/4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large red onion, cut into 1/2-inch-thick wedges
5 thyme sprigs
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
8 ounces rhubarb stalks, sliced into 1-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
3 tablespoons honey, plus more to taste
1/2 cup cilantro or mint leaves and tender stems

Procedure
Heat oven to 425 degrees and line sheet pan with parchment paper. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season all over with coriander, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

Place onion wedges on the prepared sheet pan and lightly season with more salt and pepper. Add chicken and thyme sprigs to the pan and drizzle 3 tablespoons oil over everything. Toss until well coated, then spread chicken and onions in a single layer. Roast for 30 minutes.

While the chicken is in the oven, combine rhubarb and 3 tablespoons honey in a medium bowl. Lightly drizzle with oil, add a pinch of salt and pepper, and toss until rhubarb is well coated.

Remove chicken from oven and carefully spoon rhubarb onto the hot pan around the onions and chicken. Continue roasting until the chicken is cooked through, and the rhubarb and onion are tender and caramelized, 15 to 20 minutes longer, tossing the rhubarb and onions (not the chicken) once about halfway through.

Stir the rhubarb and onions very well, making sure to incorporate all the browned bits and chicken juices from the bottom of the pan (this is the tastiest part). Then sample a piece of rhubarb. If it’s very tart, drizzle with a little more honey, tossing well. Serve chicken with rhubarb-onion mixture garnished with herbs.

Caramelized Apple and Red Onion Focaccia Tart

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
I love the combination of apples and cheese, but put it on a base of homemade focaccia and you really have a winning item. So here is a recipe for a Caramelized apple and onion tart that is totally worth your time.'

Ingredients
5 cups finely chopped red onion
1/2 cup EVOO
3/4 tablespoon kosher salt
3/4 tablespoon black pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
2 cups all purpose flour
1 tablespoon dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
3/4 cup warm water
3 large Macintosh apples, peeled, cored, and sliced thin
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 pound crumbled Roquefort cheese

Procedure
Over medium heat, sauté the onions in 6 tablespoons of the olive oil for 20 minutes, until they are soft. Stir in the salt, pepper, and thyme. Cool to room temperature. Combine the flour, yeast, sugar, remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and warm water in the bowl or your electric mixer and beat at low speed till well mixed. Now knead the dough an a lightly floured counter top or board. It should be smooth and elastic, about 8-10 minutes. Return dough to the bowl and cover with plastic. Let dough rise in a warm spot for 30 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees. Saute your apple slices in butter and brown sugar till they start to smell caramelized and darken in color, let cool. Take dough out of bowl and roll it out to about 1/2 inch thick and place it on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Cover dough with 1/2 the sautéed onion, then add the caramelized apple slices, top with remaining onions. Bake for 30-35 minutes. Then remove from oven and add the crumbled Roquefort cheese and pop back into the oven for another 10 minutes. Cut and serve, where is my Merlot?

Pumpkin baked Ziti with Caramelized Onion and Sage Crumb Topping

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Pumpkin and pasta are two foods I never really thought about putting together until now. But I found this vegetarian recipe (it used to be vegan but I changed it) in a great cookbook called Vegonomicon by Moskowitz and Romero — two women from Brooklyn — and it’s a winner!

Ingredients
3/4 pound uncooked ziti
2 onions, sliced thin
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
pinch white pepper
pinch Cayenne pepper
2 cups pumpkin puree
1/4 cup veg broth
2 1/2 cups Panko
1/3 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 cup butter
2 teaspoons dried sage
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon paprika
salt and pepper to taste

Procedure
Preheat oven to 375. Lightly grease a 9-inch x 11-inch casserole pan with olive oil. Cook off the Ziti until it is al dente. Cool in running water and set aside.

While the pasta is cooking, sauté the onions in the olive oil. Cook low and slow so they get brown and sweet, about 15 minutes. In a mixing bowl, combine the ricotta and the pumpkin puree, brown sugar, nutmeg, peppers, veggie broth and mix. Add the cooked ziti pasta and the carmelized onions to the ricotta mixture and pour into prepared pan.

Now make the topping: In a sauté pan, melt the butter and combine with the bread crumbs, walnuts, dried herbs, paprika, and salt and pepper. Stir for about 4 minutes so it all gets toasted and lightly browned. Sprinkle topping over the pasta. Bake for 28-35 minutes, till the top is browned. Cool for 10 minutes before serving. I like to have a bowl of fresh shaved Parmesan for garnish.

Samosas

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Samosas, pan fried dumplings which are traditionally filled with a spiced potato and pea filling, served with a variety of chutneys and dips, are one of my favorite parts of an Indian meal. This dough is so easy to make and so versatile I can see using it with a great variety of fillings.

Ingredients for dough
2 cups flour (Maida Flour)
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoon olive oil
6 tablespoon water

Ingredients for filling
5 medium potatoes
4 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup green peas
1 tablespoon ginger, grated
1 Serrano chili (finely chopped)
3 tablespoon cilantro, chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Oil for deep frying

Procedure for dough
Mix flour and salt in a bowl. Add 4 tablespoons oil and rub until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Slowly add about 6 tablespoons water and knead the dough for about 3 minutes or until it is smooth. Rub dough with oil. Cover it and set aside for 30 minutes or longer.

Procedure for filling
Boil, cool and peel the potatoes. Dice it into 1/4 inch size. Heat 4 tablespoons oil in saute pan over medium heat. Lower the heat and carefully put the onion. Stir fry until golden brown. Add peas, ginger, green chili, and fresh cilantro. Add diced potatoes, salt and all spices. Mix and cook on low heat for 3-4 minutes. Do not forget to stir while cooking.

Procedure for assembly + cooking
Knead the dough again. Divide it into about 10 balls. Roll each ball into a flat round shape about 5 inches in diameter. Cut it into half. Make the half into a cone by sticking seam together with a little water. Fill the cone with about 2 1/2 tablespoons of the potato mixture. Stick the top of the cone together with a little water. The seam should be about 1/4 inch (5 mm) wide. Repeat with all the dough balls.

Heat about 2 inches of oil for deep frying over a medium-low flame. When the oil is hot, carefully put in as many samosas as fit. Fry slowly, turning the samosas until they are golden brown and crisp. Drain excess oil and serve hot with a variety of dips chutneys and Raita.

Spring Onion Cakes

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Spring onion cakes from Hong Kong are a breakfast treat worth knowing about. It’s like a puffy pancake with a crisp scallion filling. I like to add other stuff to the mix like smoked salmon or sun-dried tomato. I say have fun with it, and the technique is so simple you will be customizing them before you know it.

Ingredients
6 ounces A.P. flour
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 ounces Crisco, or traditionally lard
4 tablespoons ice water
1 tablespoon cooking oil
3 ounces scallions cut into 1/4 inch dice
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
oil for deep frying

Procedure
In a mixing bowl, combine flour, sugar, salt, and Crisco or lard. Mix with your fingertips till dough looks crumbly. Now add the cold water and combine to form a smooth dough. To prepare filling, heat oil in a sauté pan and sauté the scallions for 1 minute. Add Soy and sesame oil and remove from heat. Drain off excess juice. To make cakes, roll the dough out into a 9 inch circle on a surface sprinkled with a little flour. Sprinkle onions over pastry. Roll up into a log and cut into 5 equal pieces. Now roll each piece into a 3 inch-circle. Deep fry onion cakes in hot oil till crisp and golden brown. Cut each cake in quarters and serve immediately. Great with Chinese plum jam or homemade chili jam.

Smoked Paprika Chicken with Preserved Lemon and Red Onion

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Can you ever have too much chicken? I think not. And why not nibble on more thighs? Dark meat is moister and tastier than white, cheaper too! So try this recipe!

Ingredients
8 chicken thighs
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon sweet smoked Spanish paprika
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 small red onions, peeled and cut in half crosswise
1 preserved lemon (Rula told you how to make these!)
Fresh black pepper
Fresh Thyme

Procedure
Rinse the chicken thighs in cold water and pat dry. Combine the paprika and salt and rub all over chicken. In a large heavy skillet, melt the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion halves, cut side down and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Turn onions over and cook other side. Add the chicken thighs and cook for 10 minutes, skin-side down, then turn over and cook 10 minutes more. Now quarter the preserved lemon and stuff it in pan between the chicken and the onions. Reduce heat, cover, and cook 30 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper and add fresh thyme just before serving. I would serve it with wide noodles to soak up the sauce. If you like heat, use hot smoked Paprika instead of sweet.

Stuffed white onions

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
This recipe is from the book entitled Monet’s Garden. It is one of the prettiest books in my collection, as well as having simple authentic recipes which I love to try. Of course everything tastes better when you eat it in France, but that’s a much more expensive problem.

Ingredients
4 large white onions, peeled
1 cup ground cooked pork, chicken, or calf’s liver
2 tablespoons chopped chives
2 tablespoons Herbs de Provence
1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese
1 hard boiled egg

Procedure
Cut a half inch slice off the top of the onions and blanch in boiling water. This is done by cooking them in a covered pot for 30 minutes. Then drain and carefully scoop out the center of each onion leaving about a 1/2 inch wall. Combine the ground pork with the chives, herbs, and half the grated cheese. Mash the hard-boiled egg yolk and chop the white and add to the meat mixture. Now stuff this mixture into the onion shells. Mound slightly above the top of the onion. Preheat oven to 350. Place the onions in a greased roasting pan and sprinkle the rest of the Gruyere cheese on top. Bake for 30 minutes or until cheese is lightly browned. This is a great side dish or can be served as a main with a nice rice pilaf.

Onion Herb Batter Bread

The Altitude Adjustment Section
This is a great recipe I found in a Sunset cookbook when I was a child, and have been making it ever since. It's so simple and requires no kneading.

Ingredients
1/2 cup milk
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 1/4 teaspoons butter
1 package dried yeast
1/2 cup warm water
2 1/4 cups A.P. flour
1 tablespoon finely chopped onions
1/2 teaspoon chopped dill
1/2 teaspoon chopped rosemary

Procedure
Scald milk in a small pot, remove from the heat and add the sugar, salt, and butter. Cool to lukewarm. In a large bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water 10 minutes. Add milk mixture. Stir in flour, onions and herbs. Mix till well-blended, about 2 minutes. Cover and let rise till tripled in bulk, about 30-40 minutes. Stir down vigorously for about 30 seconds. Turn dough into a greased 9-inch pie plate. Bake in a 350 oven for 50-60 minutes, or until it is golden brown and sounds hollow on the bottom when tapped. Brush top with melted butter and sprinkle with some coarse salt. Serve warm.