Sheet pan cooking: Gochujang Chicken, Za’atar Chicken, Roast Rhubarb Chicken

Three Seasonal Recipes of the Summer
Hello there! I'm not sure there is still anyone checking this, as I have been so negligent. But I am still cooking and making discoveries every day and I want to share them with you. Unfortunately, my busy schedule and my poor work habits have stopped me from updating since Thanksgiving, which is just wrong!

As some of you know, I have been a private chef to a great family with very specific dietary needs for the past two years and I have learned so much about alternative ingredients in cooking and baking. I love a challenge! So here are three recipes which started as recipes from the New York Times recipe website which I have modified and—I think—improved. I love the idea of throwing everything on a sheet pan, popping it into a hot oven, and—like magic—dinner is ready!

Great in theory, but the reality is different ingredients take different amounts of time. So you're better off staggering when you add each ingredient and have them all finish at the same time. That being said, once you have a good understanding of how things cook, you can get really creative. (BTW, I could not find my photos of these dishes so you get a pic of this weird tattooed bunny mannequin instead. I am full of sheet!)

Gochujang chicken

Ingredients
4 tablespoons gochujang (spicy Korean chili paste)
3 tablespoons soy sauce or coconut aminos
1 one-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated (about 1 tablespoon)
4 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or canola, plus more for drizzling
2 pounds squash, such as butternut, acorn, or delicata, unpeeled, seeded and cut into 2-inch pieces (about 5 loose cups)
1 pound turnips, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces (about 3 1/2 loose cups)
10 scallions, ends trimmed, green and white parts separated, but not chopped
Kosher salt
2 1/2 to 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 bunch radishes (about 10 ounces), trimmed
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sesame oil (optional)

Procedure
Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Combine the gochujang, soy sauce, ginger and 3 tablespoons oil in a medium bowl or resealable bag. Add the squash, turnips and scallion whites, toss to coat with glaze, or seal bag and shake to coat. Lightly season with salt and transfer to an oiled rimmed baking sheet. Season the chicken with salt and toss to coat in whatever is left of the glaze in the bowl or bag. Arrange the chicken pieces skin-side up on another baking sheet. In the original recipe it was all on one sheet but I found the vegetables got soggy, followed by mushy, so I separated it.

Roast until vegetables are tender, chicken is cooked through and the skin crispy and browned in spots, about 40 minutes. Check your chicken and make sure it is done. Skin should get crispy and dark.

While the chicken cooks, thinly slice the scallion greens. Using a sharp knife or a mandoline, cut the radishes into thin rounds. In a small bowl, toss the sliced scallion greens and radishes with the rice vinegar and sesame oil, if using. Season to taste with salt and set aside to lightly pickle.

Top the roast chicken and vegetables with the quick-pickled scallion-radish mix and transfer to serving plates. Serve with steamed rice, if desired.

Za’atar chicken

Ingredients 6 garlic cloves, finely grated, pressed, or minced
2 lemons, zested
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more sprigs for garnish
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
2 tablespoons za’atar, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or marjoram, plus more sprigs for garnish
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 1/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 pound tiny potatoes cut in half

Procedure In a large bowl or container, stir together 5 of the grated garlic cloves, half the lemon zest, 1/3 cup yogurt, the cilantro, oil, za’atar, oregano or marjoram, salt and black pepper. Add chicken and toss until well coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Overnight is way better.

When ready to cook, heat your oven to 425. Remove chicken from bowl, shaking off any excess marinade, put on oiled sheet pan, along with the potatoes which have a drizzle of olive oil and salt on them. Cook for should take 25-30 minutes. Make sure to mix it a little and check that the potatoes are tender.

While the chicken is cooking, place remaining 2/3 cup yogurt in a small bowl. Stir in the reserve grated garlic clove and lemon zest, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cut one zested lemon in half and set aside for serving (save the other zested lemon for another use). To serve, place chicken and potatoes on a serving platter and drizzle with olive oil and a large squeeze of the zested lemon. Top with cilantro and oregano or marjoram sprigs and serve with yogurt sauce.

Rhubarb Roasted chicken

Ingredients
1 3/4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large red onion, cut into 1/2-inch-thick wedges
5 thyme sprigs
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
8 ounces rhubarb stalks, sliced into 1-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
3 tablespoons honey, plus more to taste
1/2 cup cilantro or mint leaves and tender stems

Procedure
Heat oven to 425 degrees and line sheet pan with parchment paper. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season all over with coriander, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

Place onion wedges on the prepared sheet pan and lightly season with more salt and pepper. Add chicken and thyme sprigs to the pan and drizzle 3 tablespoons oil over everything. Toss until well coated, then spread chicken and onions in a single layer. Roast for 30 minutes.

While the chicken is in the oven, combine rhubarb and 3 tablespoons honey in a medium bowl. Lightly drizzle with oil, add a pinch of salt and pepper, and toss until rhubarb is well coated.

Remove chicken from oven and carefully spoon rhubarb onto the hot pan around the onions and chicken. Continue roasting until the chicken is cooked through, and the rhubarb and onion are tender and caramelized, 15 to 20 minutes longer, tossing the rhubarb and onions (not the chicken) once about halfway through.

Stir the rhubarb and onions very well, making sure to incorporate all the browned bits and chicken juices from the bottom of the pan (this is the tastiest part). Then sample a piece of rhubarb. If it’s very tart, drizzle with a little more honey, tossing well. Serve chicken with rhubarb-onion mixture garnished with herbs.

Scallion Flatbread

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
I thought today I would do a recipe for a simple scallion flatbread. You make this and a little hummus or Baba Ganouj, then all you need is the cocktails and you have a party!

Ingredients
1 cup A.P. flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
5 scallions, green parts only, diced on the diagonal
3/4 cup warm water
1/2 cup additional peanut oil for brushing

Procedure
In a large bowl, sift together the flours, sugar, and salt. Pour in the peanut oil and sesame oil and mix till slightly crumbly. Add the scallions and 1/2 cup of warm water. Then add the remaining water 1 tablespoon at a time until a soft, non-sticky dough forms. Add more water if necessary. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead till smooth. Roll the dough into a thick rope and slice into 8 pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. Pour about a tablespoon of oil into the bowl where you made the dough and roll each ball in the oil. Leave them in the bowl and cover with a clean slightly damp dishtowel. Allow dough to rest 10 minutes before cooking. Now for the rolling process. Take one ball and roll into a circle on a floured surface. Roll into as thin of a circle as possible, brush with oil, fold in half brush with oil and fold again. Now roll back into a circle. About 1/8 inch thick. Do all 8 pieces and stack up with wax paper between them. Heat up a heavy cast iron pan. Lightly brush the circles with oil and fry one at a time about 2 minutes on each side. They will get bubbles in them and puff up. Push down as they are cooking. They will harden as they cool. To soften, wrap in a moist paper towel and microwave, or wrap in foil and heat in the oven.

Spring Onion Cakes

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Spring onion cakes from Hong Kong are a breakfast treat worth knowing about. It’s like a puffy pancake with a crisp scallion filling. I like to add other stuff to the mix like smoked salmon or sun-dried tomato. I say have fun with it, and the technique is so simple you will be customizing them before you know it.

Ingredients
6 ounces A.P. flour
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 ounces Crisco, or traditionally lard
4 tablespoons ice water
1 tablespoon cooking oil
3 ounces scallions cut into 1/4 inch dice
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
oil for deep frying

Procedure
In a mixing bowl, combine flour, sugar, salt, and Crisco or lard. Mix with your fingertips till dough looks crumbly. Now add the cold water and combine to form a smooth dough. To prepare filling, heat oil in a sauté pan and sauté the scallions for 1 minute. Add Soy and sesame oil and remove from heat. Drain off excess juice. To make cakes, roll the dough out into a 9 inch circle on a surface sprinkled with a little flour. Sprinkle onions over pastry. Roll up into a log and cut into 5 equal pieces. Now roll each piece into a 3 inch-circle. Deep fry onion cakes in hot oil till crisp and golden brown. Cut each cake in quarters and serve immediately. Great with Chinese plum jam or homemade chili jam.

Egg Fu (not so) Young

Seasonal Recipe of the Week
Egg Fu Yung, does anyone still make that? And more importantly, does anyone still eat that? Hey, I had it last week at Bamboo and I loved it, but it got me to thinking, thinking about tarting it up a bit, if you know what I mean. After all, it is basically just an Asian flavored omelet so why not take it up a notch, if I might borrow the over-used and tired lingo of The Food Network. Bam! add some lobster Bam! add some duck and you have a gourmet retro party in your mouth. So here are the ingredients:

Ingredients for Sauce
2 cups strong clear chicken broth
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1/4 cup cold water
1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

Ingredients for Pancakes
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil
5 eggs lightly beaten
2 scallions finely chopped
1/2 cup sliced celery
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon fresh grated ginger
1 clove crushed garlic
2 cups bean sprouts
1 cup julienne of duck breast lobster meat or grilled shrimp

Procedure
To make the sauce, combine broth and soy sauce and bring to a boil. Combine cold water and cornstarch and blend till smooth. Combine with hot broth and whisk till smooth and thick, then remove from heat.

To make pancakes, combine eggs, scallions, celery, soy, ginger, and garlic. In a large skillet, heat the oil. Ladle in a big scoop of egg mix. Brown on both sides. Saute up your fancy filling in another small pan. I like to sauté my duck breast in a little Hoisin sauce or Oyster sauce. Then I add the sprouts. Then I layer my fillings and pancakes and pour the warm sauce over the top. Serve with Jasmine rice and enjoy. Remember, all Chinese food tastes better when you use chopsticks!